Building DIY farmhouse shelves is an easy and budget friendly weekend project to give your laundry room (or any room in your home) a beautiful makeover. Chris and I just renovated our laundry room and we installed these beautiful farmhouse shelves and countertop over our washer and dryer. The total cost of the wood was under $100! We spent $98 dollars on all the wood used in this project.
This post will guide you through how to build and install these budget friendly farmhouse shelves in your home!
Supplies Needed
– Countertop Shelving Supplies –
- Three 2 in. x 4 in. x 8 ft. Pine Boards (here from Home Depot)
- Six 2 in. x 6 in. x 8 ft. Pine Boards (here from Home Depot)
- One box of 3 in. Wood Screws for the structural support frame (here from Home Depot)
- One box of 2 in. Wood Screws for the countertop (here from Home Depot)
- One box of 1 in. x 1 in. x 1/2 in Corner Brace L Brackets (here from Amazon)
- Poly + Stain in Classic Oak (here from Amazon)
- Wood Putty in Golden Oak (here from Amazon)
- Miter Saw (here from Home Depot)
- Planer (optional) (here from Amazon)
- Impact Driver (here from Amazon)
- Two Bar Clamp (here from Harbor Freight)
- Stain Brush (here from Home Depot)
- Folding Sawhorses (here from Amazon)
- Paint Opener (here from Amazon)
- Stir Stick (here from Amazon)
- Level (here from Amazon)
- Stud Finder (here from Amazon)
- Tape Measure (here from Amazon)
- 120-grit sandpaper/block/disc (here from Amazon)
- 220-grit sandpaper/block/disc (here from Amazon)
- Carpenter Pencil (here form Amazon)
– Wall Shelving Supplies –
- Two 2 in. x 12 in. x 8 ft. Pine Boards (here from Home Depot)
- Four 12 in. Black Steel Shelf Brackets (here from Home Depot)
- One Box of 1 in. Black Drywall Screws (here from Amazon)
- Miter Saw (here from Home Depot)
- Planer (optional) (here from Amazon)
- Impact Driver (here from Amazon)
- Poly + Stain in Classic Oak (here from Amazon)
- Stain Brush (here from Home Depot)
- Folding Sawhorses (here from Amazon)
- Paint Opener (here from Amazon)
- Stir Stick (here from Amazon)
- Level (here from Amazon)
- Stud Finder (here from Amazon)
- Tape Measure (here from Amazon)
- 220-grit sandpaper/block/disc (here from Amazon)
- Carpenter Pencil (here form Amazon)
Build & Installation
– Countertop Build & Installation –
You might find my YouTube video, How to Build and Install Laundry Room Shelves, helpful throughout this process.
The first step in building a countertop shelf is to locate the studs in your walls. Do this by using a stud finder and then mark each stud with a carpenter pencil on the wall.
Next, figure out how deep you want your countertop.
Since we used 2 x 6 pine boards to construct our countertop, we calculated multiples of five and a half until we got closest to the distance of the depth of our washer and dryer from the back wall. The depth from the back wall to the front of our washer and dryer ended up equating to six 2 x 6 boards deep. This is an overall countertop depth of 33 inches.
Measure from the back of the wall…
… to the front of the washer and dryer.
The next step is to calculate the distance from side wall to side wall. Our distance measured out to be 79 1/2 inches across (from one wall to the other).
Build the Structural Frame
Once you have measurements for your countertop, it’s time to build the structural frame. The structural frame will rest under the countertop and keep it secure to the walls. The structural frame is made out of the 2 x 4 x 8 pine boards.
Use a miter saw to cut each board.
Install the back wall board of the structural frame first. The length of our back wall structural board was 79 1/2 inches.
After the back wall structural board (2 x 4 x 8 pine board) is cut to size, install it to the back wall with 3 inch wood screws.
Before screwing in the back wall structural board make sure to use a level to assure that the board is level.
Be sure to screw into the studs previously marked on the wall. Install the board flush against the back wall.
Next calculate the length of the side structural supports.
Before doing so you will want to determine if you prefer a countertop lip (overhang) or not. We have a 1 1/2 inch lip at the front of our countertop.
At this point, measure from the front of the installed back wall structural board to where your countertop will start. For our countertop we calculated a total depth of 33 inches.
That means our side wall structural support boards will each be 28 1/2 inches long.
To review, to reach a total depth of 33 inches we had to accommodate for the thickness of our two 2 x 4’s and our 1 1/2 inch countertop lip. That left us with a remainder of 28 1/2 inches for each side structural board length.
Once the side structural boards are cut (2 x 4 x 8 pine board) attach them to the sides of each wall where you previously marked studs.
Attach the side structural boards with 3 inch wood screws.
Before screwing in the side wall structural boards make sure to use your level to assure that you are installing each board level.
Be sure to screw into the studs previously marked on the wall. Install the boards flush against the side walls.
The next step is to install the faceplate of the structural frame.
First get the measurement for the faceplate.
To do this measure from side wall to side wall where the faceplate will be installed. Just like we did to find the length of the back wall structural board earlier. Ours was 79 1/2 inches in length.
Cut the 2 x 4 x 8 pine board (faceplate) to size with a miter saw. Again, we cut ours to 79 1/2 inches.
Then install the faceplate (2 x 4 x 8 pine board cut to size).
To install screw the faceplate directly into the two side structural boards. This can be done with a total of four 3 inch wood screws.
Later, once the countertop is installed, you will fill these four screw holes with wood putty.
The last step of building the structural frame is measuring, cutting, and installing the middle support board.
To find the length of the middle structural board measure from the back wall structural board to the faceplate.
This will likely be the same distance as the two side structural boards. Ours were the same length – 28 1/2 inches each.
After the middle structural board (2 x 4 x 8 pine board) is cut to size install it with “L”/corner brackets.
Place the “L” brackets in each corner where the middle structural board meets the faceplate and the back wall structural board. In total you will use 4 “L” brackets. One in each corner.
Install each “L” bracket with the screws they come with.
CONGRATULATIONS! You’ve just built yourself a laundry countertop structural support frame. This structural support frame will hold and support the countertop.
Which we will build right now!
As a reminder the structural frame is built to be an inch and a half shorter than the countertop (to accommodate a countertop lip).
Build the Countertop
The first step in building a countertop is to either sand each 2 x 6 x 8 pine board or run each 2 x 6 x 8 pine board through a planer. We did the latter and ran each board through a planer. You can watch this process in my YouTube video, How to Build and Install Laundry Room Shelves.
We ran our boards through a planer because we own a planer, but this step is optional. Purchasing straight boards should be fine. A planer allows for both sides of a wood board to be parallel to one another. Essentially, you end with a cleaner and smoother product.
The laundry countertop is made entirely out of 2 x 6 x 8 pine boards and each cut was made with a miter saw.
Next, measure the distance between side wall to side wall. This will be the length of the countertop boards. Our distance was 79 1/2 inches.
Cut each board to size with a miter saw.
PRO TIP: The walls of a room are not always square. This could mean that the length of each countertop board might be different. Best rule of thumb would be to measure the distance from wall to wall for each 2 x 6 countertop board.
Next, attach a 2 x 6 board to the back of all your cut 2 x 6 countertop boards (we had 6 countertop boards).
Lay each cut 2 x 6 countertop boards side by side.
Use two bar clamps to secure the boards tightly next to one another. This will help keep each board exactly where they need to be while you attach the attacher board.
Cut a scrap piece of 2 x 6 board to use as the attacher board.
Make sure to cut it with the 2 x 4 structural frame in mind. That is to say, the attacher 2 x 6 board will need to have a gap of at least 1 1/5 inches on each side. We used a scrap 2 x 6 attacher board of 28 inches in length.
Place the attacher board across all six 2 x 6 countertop boards (see image below).
Then attach the attacher board with an impact driver to each 2 x 6 countertop board.
We did not use any type of adhesive to attach out countertop boards. We only used the 2 x 6 attacher board (cut to size at 28 inches in length) to secure each countertop board in place.
You will repeat this process once more on the opposite end of the countertop (see image below).
Stain the Countertop & Wall Shelves
The following are the pieces of wood to stain:
- The countertop you just built
- The cut to size 2 x 4 faceplate from the structural frame
- Two 2 x 12 x 8 wall shelving pine boards
How to Stain the Shelves
I recommend that you watch my YouTube video, How to Stain Shelves in 3 Easy Steps, to better understand this process.
First, you will want to make sure you’ve prepped the shelves by either sanding or sending them through a planer (see above).
Take each prepped board that you wish to stain and set them up on sawhorses.
Then open the Poly + Stain with a paint opener and give the Poly + Stain a thorough stir with a stir stick.
From there use your stain brush to stain the boards.
Load up the stain (or Poly + Stain) on one side of the stain brush.
Then, plop that stain onto the center of the board in a small puddle.
Next, work the stain along the board (with the grain) via a stain brush.
PRO TIP: Be sure to apply the stain with the gain. To do this notice which way the lines in the wood run. Then apply the stain in that same direction (you would also sand with the gain if you plan to sand).
To stain the sides of the boards avoid reloading the stain brush. Use the excess stain on the brush from staining the top to lightly cover the sides.
Too much stain on the edges and the sides of the board will cause for the stain to run and dry in a hard drip.
Or as I call them in my YouTube video – “runnies”.
After applying stain to the sides of the board, use the brush to “catch the runnies”. Use stain brush to run, just barely, against the gain under the board.
This helps prevent drips from forming on the edge of the board.
Once the entire surface has been stained let the Poly + Stain dry fully. I left mine over night.
Continue the stain process on all boards that will be visible (countertop, faceplate from the structural frame, and the two 2 x 12 x 8 wall shelving).
For the wall shelves, stain the bottom of the board as well as the top and sides. – The wall shelves will be viewed from the top and bottom so make sure you stain both sides. –
The total staining process (front and back) took me about 30 minutes to complete.
To finalize the staining process give each board a final light sand. Use the 220-grit sanding paper to do this.
Place the 220-grit sanding paper directly on the dried Poly + Stain surface. Lightly press your hand on the sandpaper.
It’s important that you do not put much pressure on the sandpaper.
Then lightly sand with the gain and cover the entire surface and sides. This process will remove the small bumps/ridges that form after the poly dries.
The total 220-grit sanding process took me about 15 minutes to complete.
Install the Countertop
The countertop is built to sit snug into place. This makes for a bit of a challenge while installing the countertop. To see how we maneuvered the countertop during our installation process watch my YouTube video, How to Build and Install Laundry Room Shelves.
The goal is to drop the countertop into place on top of the structural support frame.
Make sure the attacher boards (holding the countertop together) are able to drop down between the structural framing.
Once you have the countertop snuggly in place, that’s it!
We built the countertop to be a very snug fit so that we did not need to use any other fasteners to secure the countertop to the structural frame. In short, this is simply sitting in place and not screwed in or attached in any other way.
This will also allow for us to quickly remove the counter top to access the water hook ups should we need to.
After installing the countertop fill the front facing screw holes on the faceplate with wood putty. Allow the putty to dry over night and then sand the excess putty to be level with the faceplate. I used 120-grit sandpaper to do this.
– Wall Shelves Build & Installation –
After the Poly + Stain has dried on all the shelves and you’ve lightly sanded each one with a 220-grit sandpaper, then move on to cutting and installing the wall shelves.
The next step is to cut the stained 2 x 12 x 8 pine boards with a miter saw to size.
Measuring the Wall Shelves
First measure the length between each side wall (or the length you would like your shelves). For us, the distance between our two side walls was 79 1/2 inches.
Then cut boards to size with a miter saw.
After the shelves are cut to size, locate their final resting place on the wall.
To do this you can either hold up the shelf or bracket to eyeball it’s final location. Either method works – use what will help you visualize your shelving best. I used a bracket and you can see this in my YouTube video.
PRO TIP: Use the largest items you plan to store/use on your shelves to help gauge where your shelves should be placed. For example, in my YouTube video I used a laundry detergent bottle to make sure my lowest shelf would provide enough space between it and the countertop to house my laundry detergent.
Once you have an idea where you’d like to have your lower wall shelf rest, mark the bottom of that shelf, or the screw holes in the bracket, with a pencil.
Install the first bracket with two black drywall screws through the two screw holes with an impact driver.
Next you will level the brackets and shelf.
Level the Shelf and Brackets
To level the shelf and brackets start with the bottom shelf and measure the distance from the side wall to the bracket location.
This measurement between the side wall to the bracket location will insure that the bracket on the opposite side is installed at equal distance.
With this measurement (ours was 10 1/2 inches), measure out from the opposite side wall. That is where your second bracket will rest.
PRO TIP: We hung our brackets and shelves into shiplap which provided support. If you are installing these directly to sheetrock walls you will want to locate a stud with a stud finder.
To insure that the shelf is level, place a long level across the first installed bracket. Once you find it level, mark the furtherest end of the level closest to the next bracket.
Chances are the level will not go completely across the wall to the next bracket location. Therefore, mark the end of the level with a pencil and then move your level to that pencil mark to continue the level process to the next bracket.
Once the end of the level is marked, pick up the level and move it as far over toward the next bracket location as possible, while also keeping it in line with the mark you just made.
At this point mark the bracket distance from the wall (the marked distance you found earlier), but at the level line. We marked ours at 10 1/2 inches away from the opposite wall.
Installing the Brackets
After finding the level distance for the second bracket, hold it in place, mark the two screw holes with a pencil. Remove the bracket from them wall.
After removing the bracket from the wall pre-drill the bracket holes.
PRO TIP: Pre-drilling holes allows you to have better control while drilling. If attempting to drill directly into the wall while holding the brackets (without pre-drilling) the chances of losing control of the impact driver, screws, and bracket are high. Take it from me – pre-drilling is the way to go.
After pre-drilling the bracket holes, install the bracket.
Place the bracket back to the wall and align to the pre-drilled holes. Then attach the bracket to the wall with 2 black drywall screws and an impact driver.
Continue this process until all four brackets are installed.
Installing the Wall Shelves
Place the first shelf board on top of the installed brackets. Use a level to insure levelness.
Drill the last 4 black drywall screws into the bracket holes and into the bottom of the wall shelving.
At this point it’s not necessary to pre-drill these holes. With the brackets firmly in place you are able to have better control of the impact driver.
Continue this process with all wall shelves that you plan to install.
– Enjoy the Final Product –
Y’all! You’re done! Isn’t it beautiful and satisfying – knowing you’ve built and installed your own shelving?! I don’t know about you but this view gets me excited to come into my laundry room!
– Shop the Blog –
You can view my before and after laundry room photos and shop my laundry room look here.
Thanks so much for joining me on this DIY Laundry Room Shelving journey and if you recreate this look I’d love to see it! Post in the comments below or and/or tag me on Instagram @the.reno.gal.